Texas Mountain Raiders

TMR Tips Sheet

Getting Involved with TMR

This guide has been written to help members understand some of the best ways to get involved in the club. Naturally, there isn't just one way to become active in the club but this information should help members get going in the right direction based on their interests.

TMR and rock climbing

If your interests are in rock climbing then you'll find that attending the weekly club gym climbs is often the best way to get to know some of the club members. If you work hard and climb often you'll quickly develop a group of climbing partners that you work well with. During this time you'll want to work on building your strength and climbing skills and soon you'll be ready for some climbing on real rock. Attending club climbs to Enchanted Rock is another excellent way to build your climbing skills and getting to know others in the club. If you're not a lead climber you'll want to discuss some plans with those that you've been climbing with to try and set up the best trip possible.

Once you achieve a reasonable skill set, you can start expanding your climbing horizons by climbing at some of the classic rock climbing areas in North America and beyond. You will often find interest in other club members to go climb with you. As well, many rock climbers carry their skills over into mountaineering so if you have good rock climbing skills you could likely find other club members that would take you out to see how you like the mountains which can offer new levels of challenges and rewards.

TMR and mountaineering

Due to the obvious lack of mountains in our proximity it's often difficult to cultivate a club mountaineering program that rivals the rock climbing side. While the club does not officially sponsor any mountaineering trips it can still offer a valuable network of climbers to interact with, learn from and seek potential mountaineering opportunities. As well, the club has had members in the past offer basic mountaineering classes (in Houston) for anyone interested, however such functions are generally offered when there is sufficient demand so you should make it know if this appeals to you. There are always a variety of mountaineering trips that club members participate in though out a year but the frequency and openness of enrollment of these trips varies wildly as the club does not officially support them. Generally, if any trip is open it will include many physical training and planning sessions to assure everyone is suited for the climb.

Many mountaineers in the club are also interested in rock climbing and one should consider developing skills in that area to assist them in the mountains. Other mountain climbers in the club are not interested in technical rock climbing and generally only attend club functions away from a rock climbing venue.

Gear Purchase Recommendations for Rock Climbing
by Larry Kruse (with minor edits by the webmaster)

Taking up climbing, like many other sports and activities, can run into some money. The amount spent depends on how deeply you get involved with it, what types of climbing interest you, etc. You can literally spend tens of thousands of dollars on climbing gear, especially if you do high altitude mountaineering. This guide is written to inform, not to intimidate. Also, some gear, when purchased in combination with other gear or in sets can lead to significant savings.

THE BASICS: For gym climbing, you might get tired of renting shoes and a harness. After several visits, you will find that it is more cost effective to buy your own basic gear. The first round of gear should include:

climbing shoes (about $130) Climbing shoes should be snug but not painful as you may spend some time in them.

climbing harness ($40-$70) I prefer a harness that has adjustable leg loops, gear loops, and a haul loop, ladies might also enjoy one that allows the seat to be dropped.

chalk bag (about $20) The opening of the chalk bag should be big enough to easily get your hand in and out while up a route.

chalk ball (about $4) Goes inside the chalk bag.

For advanced (lead) gym climbing you will want to include:

a belay device (about $20) Get a nice one, such as a Trango Pyramid that can vent the heat built up by rope friction for long outside rappels.

an oversized locking carabiner ($15 to $20) Get a standard screw-gate as opposed to an auto-locking one.

HEADING OUTDOORS: If you're ready for climbing outdoors and going with climbers who have gear to share then the basic gear listed above is likely all you will need, new TMR members can have a successful trip on a club climb to Austin and Enchanted Rock with the gear listed above. With outdoor climbing you can take the knowledge you've learned in the gym and apply it to the real thing.

As you're ready to start gearing up to set your own top ropes (on bolted sport climb routes) you should invest in the following:

two oval and two locking carabiners (combined cost $40) I suggest that you use 2 locking carabiners on the bolts, and two oval carabiners for the rope. It is important that the 2 carabiners on the rope are identical.

three standard length sewn runners (about $7 each) Use 2 for the top-rope anchor, and 1 for your belayer’s anchor.

20-40 ft. long piece of 1" webbing (about $10) Used to set anchors on rock horns.

static or dynamic climbing rope ($100 - $200 for the dynamic) A 60 meter 10.5mm is an optional size for most climbers but newer climbers could consider purchasing an 11mm diameter (or larger) rope.

a rope bag or tarp (optional, about $25) This protects your rope from getting dirty or wet- both of which severely limit the lifetime of your rope before it must be retired.

athletic tape (optional, about $3) Highly recommend for protecting your hands while crack climbing.

a helmet (about $70) Depending on where you go climbing this is either optional or mandatory. It should be considered absolutely mandatory for all climbers whenever you are in an area that isn't climbed frequently, or in an unknown area, or when you know that there is serious potential for loose rock. I have no doubt in my mind that my helmet saved my life when I was in the Tetons.

If you're ready to start lead climbing on bolted routes, you will want to add the following gear:

eight quick draws with carabiners (about $128)

daisy chain with a locking carabiner (about $20) I suggest buying a uniquely colored carabiner for easy identification when making a desperate clip and to prevent you from grabbing this carabiner inadvertently. The purpose of obtaining one of these is to be able to rapidly clip into a belay anchor in an adjustable and efficient manner.

dynamic climbing rope (about $100 - $200) It should go without saying that a dynamic rope is a requirement for a lead climber.

As you get into traditional climbing, placing your own gear, then there are other items you will need:

four sewn runners (about $28) Easiest and quickest to use.

four tied runners (about $12) Always carry these in case you need to retreat on a climb, or in case you need to replace old or weathered or damaged rappel webbing, or in cases where you need to untie the runner to thread through an anchor of some sort.

eight quick draws with carabiners (about $128) The reason you have these at all is because they are stronger than most regular runners, and it will allow you to still tackle most sport routes anyway.

a full set of wired nuts or stoppers (about $50) I actually prefer DMM brand of Wall-nuts because of their asymmetrical shape seems to fit a lot more places than regular conventional nuts. Metolious also makes some asymmetrical offset wired nuts.

set of active camming units (about $370 for a full set) I prefer the Black Diamond brand Camalots (0.5, 0.75 Cost: $ 130. 1, 2, 3, 4 Cost: $ 240) because of their unique engineering qualities of being the only camming device with double axles. This design gives the cam a much wider range of placement and adds strength to the device. Another benefit of this design is that it can also be used as a “passive” placement similar to a wired nut. Though rarely ever used in this fashion, cams can wiggle around after they are placed, and even if it does “walk” from the original placement, it might still hold a fall successfully if it wedges itself in. I have actually used one intentionally for placement of this kind when climbing at Hueco Tanks and placing one of these into a Hueco that was entirely hollow inside and wider than the cam itself.

gear sling and sewn runner (about $24) Racking your gear on a gear sling or runner allows the leader to be much more maneuverable when caught in tight places. It is also essential when climbing multipitch routes where the lead is being swapped every pitch as the rack can be transferred between climbers as a single unit. A second needs something to put the gear on when they remove it after following a lead climber.

nut tool (about $7). Used to help remove stuck protection.

around 28 oval carabiners (about $140) I recommend that you only purchase oval carabiners. 16 reserved for making into quick draws or runners, 2 used for racking wired stoppers, 1 used for racking .5 and .75 cams, 1 used for racking #1 and #2 cams, 1 used for racking #3 cam, 1 used for racking #4 cam, 3 used for leader to set the belay anchor, 1 used for second to anchor into the belay, 2 used if continuing to another belay.

Other gear should be added as needed. There is gear for sleeping overnight on the side of a cliff, head lamps if you¹re stuck climbing or descending in the dark etc. As one moves away from rocks and up ice and snow, there are other purchases that will need to be made, including an ice ax, crampons, special clothing and boots, etc.

Building Your Climbing Skills

The following information can help act as a guide for building your climbing skill set and what gear you may need to do various activities. This table is not meant to be a comprehensive list of everything you need to know to climb safely but it can help assure that you aren't lagging in certain skills and provide a simple roadmap to base your progress on.

	Rock Climbing Skills
Understand climbing gear basics	Characteristics of ropes (dynamic vs. static, diameter, length, treatments, single, twin & double), slings & webbing, differences of carabiners (locking, shapes and sizes), harnesses, climbing shoes, belay devices, rope bags.
Top rope climbing	Toprope belay techniques, signals used, rope stacking procedures, tying in (rewoven figure 8), use of directionals (passing gear), how to lower, avoiding entanglement in the rope, how to care for a rope, vulnerabilities of a weighted rope. Understanding rock fall hazards. Basic climbing technique (slab, face, crack). Taping hands for cracks. Understanding the grading system. Gear Required: harness, belay device, locking carabiner. A helmet may be required for some climbs. Recommended: rock shoes, chalk bag.
Top rope cleaning	Cleaning quick draws, cleaning an anchor, use of daisy chain, girth hitch, how to join two ropes together (double fisherman), rappelling, rappel backups, prevention methods of getting the rappel rope stuck, clove hitch, how to coil a rope (butterfly). Electricians coil. Additional Gear Required: daisy chain or two 12" slings.
Lead belay & following	Flaking the rope, lead belay techniques, belay stances (strong vs. weak), estimating remaining rope length, setting a bottom anchor (water knot), tying off a leader, lead climbing signals, cleaning trad pro, use of nut tool, bowline knot. Additional Gear Recommended: nut tool, long piece of webbing.
Understand the climbing safety system	Lesson in climbing physics, understanding gear strength, loads and fall factor. Keeping unneeded gear out of the safety system. Why everything works. Learning to ask "what if this failed". Anchor system basics. How to inspect a rope.
Bolted lead climbing	Rack fundamentals, how to set a toprope anchor (padding a lip), how to set a rappel, awareness of carabiner gate orientation, avoiding rope drag, how to fall properly, retreat techniques. Munter hitch. Additional Gear Recommended: dynamic rope, 4-8 quick draws, anchor gear (lots of extra slings and carabiners- some locking), rope bag.
Multi-pitch (bolted)	Considerations and techniques, swinging leads, rack organization, belay organization, rope management, communication using rope techniques. Escaping the belay. Additional Gear Required: dynamic rope, quick draws, anchor gear.
Trad protection and complex anchor systems	Understanding of different types of trad pro (active & passive), how to set a trad anchor (solid, redundant, equalized, no extensions), relationship of angle between protection and loading, multidirectional placements
Trad lead climbing	Traditional gear placement, belay setup and tear down, rack organization, protecting against the zipper effect, minimizing rope drag, protecting traverses, determine the gear needed for a climb, . Additional Gear Required: trad lead rack.
Other advanced skills	Rescue techniques, aid climbing, big wall climbing, route setting, bolt placement, self-belayed solo climbing.

	Alpine / Mountaineering Skills
Alpine climbing basics	Clothing material & insulation, gear used for climbs, menu planning, conditioning. Rest step, pressure breathing, carry and use of ice axe. Plunge-stepping and glissading. Understanding basic hazards of weather, avalanches, altitude sickness and cold. Basics of route finding and orienteering, use of wands.
Roped alpine climbing	Use and consideration for rope teams, team arrest, running belays. Hip belay, boot-axe belay. Arm rappel, rewoven figure 8 & butterfly knot.
Snow & ice anchors	Deadman, pickets, ice screws and bollards. Complex anchor systems.
Glacier travel	Crossing crevasses (end run, snow bridges), crevasse rescue: C and Z pulley systems, self rescue (Texas Prusik). Crampon use (French technique, German technique, American technique).
Ice climbing	Equipment and technique.
Expedition climbing	Planning and preparation, winter camping, snowshoeing, telemark skiing.

Tips on Being a Good Climbing Partner

What it takes to be a good climber is very subjective and everyone has a different view of the subject. However, throughout years of climbing one will find some common themes amongst everyone, most of which are little more than common sense, never-the-less, it seems that these tips often get violated so they are worth stating.

Show motivation and enthusiasm for climbing. Serious climbers love climbing and other people that are interested in it. Most people don't care what level you're climbing at, everyone started off somewhere. Spend time learning about climbing techniques as well as technical skills. Buy climbing related books and read them.

Be generous in whatever way possible with your climbing partners and people that are helping you out.

Be reliable. If you say you're going to do something then do it. Be on time.

Keep focused on the priorities of the climbing team. Think of every ones safety.

Do not complain.

Try not to be the last one ready to go when your team is heading out from any place you happen to be.

Never panic.

Either hide minor pains or frame their discussion in a positive manner.

Remember, you're there to have a good time. Be happy. Enjoy the outdoors. Show your enthusiasm for the climb.

Buy and offer for use as much group gear as possible. Not only is it nice to have and enables your trips but others will view you as a resourceful partner that can contribute.

Help out with trip planning, offer suggesting of places to climb, do research on local resources, logistics to get to the climb or whatever needs to be done to have a successful climb.

Before a trip, understand what you're going to be doing as much as possible and plan and prepare accordingly.

Know how to use all of your gear before you go on a climb.

Learn safety, rescue and first aid skills.

Additional tips for rock climbing:

Do not comment on the lack of speed of a lead climber or their lack of desire to attempt a climb. If you don't like it, lead it yourself.
Learn to belay good.
When out at the climbing crags with a group do everything you can to help assure everyone get in their fill of climbing. If someone needs a belay, offer to do so. If you're out toproping and there aren't enough ropes set-up do everything you can to get another rope going either by leading something that you are capable of or finding a climb that you can gain access to set-up an anchor via a walk-up. If you can't offer either of these then wait patiently for a chance to toprope and later work on what skills and gear you will need to minimize this situation in the future.
Work hard to improve your climbing level.

Additional tips for mountaineering:

Be willing to carry more than your share of group gear.

Jump to the occasion of helping out with group chores at camp.

Learn to cook.

Strive to achieve the best fitness you can, if you have any concerns about being the slowest on a climb do not bring anything that isn't completely necessary. Evaluate everything you are going to bring and become determined to cut weight off even it if means buying some new lighter gear. Keep evaluating your conditioning, if you feel you're going to come up short of what you should be at, tell your partners, they will understand. Consider not going if you don't feel much room to change every ones plans. If possible, volunteer to be a camp manger if you end up beat before the summit bid. Do not push yourself over the edge and become a team liability (it happens).

Be able to put your crampons on with complete ease. Make sure your crampons will not come off your boots when they aren't suppose to. Ever.

Be able to disassemble, clean, repair and reassemble your stove.

Make sure your pack fits you well. If it doesn't, don't complain.

Even if you're not the leader, learn good orienteering skills.

Do an analysis on your gear to determine what you would need to do when something broke. Use this information to build a repair kit.

Take care of your body at altitude. Drink lots of water.

Make sure you bring similar equipment as your climbing partners. For example, if your partners bring snowshoes then you should also bring snowshoes. There's no point in one person being prepared for something when others in the team aren't as the extra items will generally just be useless extra weight.